Paris

Paris

Ah Paris- what a dream this city is.

I have to say, I was a bit nervous to navigate this city by myself at first. I remember stepping off the train with nervous excitement, filing into the flood of people heading into the city.

After quite a bit of research and asking locals, I decided I wanted a more local and real experience of life in Paris vs the glitz, glam, and chaos of more tourist heavy areas, so I made my way to the 11th arrondissement where my air bnb was located. After climbing up 4 flights of stairs, I entered my flat and immediately dropped my bags, crossed the room, and opened up the huge windows- letting the sights, sounds and smells of Paris flood my senses. I remember I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face.

Any time I told someone I was going to Paris I either got one of two reactions. Either they loved the city or hated the city, it seemed, and I was a little nervous by some of the strong reactions I received, especially about me traveling there on my own.

What if I ended up hating it and I booked a whole week there?

As I stared out my window, I let these thoughts and fears disappear. This was my Paris experience. I was going to soak it in for all it was worth and let it be what it would be, but I had a good feeling about it and I can still feel butterflies in my stomach from those first moments I had there.

The 11th arrondissement really stole my heart. I loved opening my windows and watching kids being taken to school in the morning, the bustle of the bakery right across the street opening up, the rush of people coming home after work and grabbing a drink with friends. I felt as though I got to observe everyday Parisian life from my little fourth floor flat and I was soaking in every moment- but there was also a grit to this life in Paris I found myself living for a week, and I will say being there as a solo female traveler had both its perks and downsides, as I’ll dive into later on.

The first day I remembered I was extremely overwhelmed. After coming from Amsterdam, the amount of diversity and people I found myself in was both exciting and nerve wracking. It had been awhile since I had navigated a city of this size, but after finding my footing in my neighborhood I was excited to see all that Paris had to offer. I split the days up into which arrondissements I would explore each day, and which museums and iconic places I would visit within the arrondissements, leaving me time to revisit the ones that stole my heart.

Because I was there for an entire week and I filled that week full to the brim, I could honestly write separate posts on each arrondissement, but I will just hit my Paris highlights and places I loved the most here.

I absolutely loved the Marais. Filled with beautiful parks, buildings, and streets, I found myself in the area repeatedly throughout the week, and had the best crepes at Breizh cafe. One thing about being in Paris was I had a whole list of foods and treats to try, and every day it was my mission to cross something off the list. French cheese, pastries, bread- I wanted to try it all. And it all met every expectation I had.

My favorite park near the Marais was Place des Vosges- with its impressive fountains and lush green grass. It seemed like the meeting place for evening picnics and lunch breaks and all week I just enjoyed observing people and taking in the beauty that was everywhere you looked. At some point I just stopped taking pictures because nothing can do the extravagance of this city justice.

The iconic cafe Carrette is located right beside this park and I loved strolling past and watching the extravagant hot chocolate and pastries being set on perfect tables in front of perfectly dressed individuals.

Can we just take a moment to appreciate French fashion and their appreciation for being well dressed at all times? I’m glad I only had a carry-on or I would’ve loaded a suitcase full of new clothes.

Palais Garnier was extravagant and beautiful, well worth a visit, as well as Musee d’Orsay- I found this museum far less crowded than the Louvre. I enjoyed the Louvre immensely but it is massive and I felt like I was able to take in and enjoy my time at Musee d’Orsay a bit more because I didn’t feel as lost or like I had this huge list of pieces I had to see- plus it’s nice being able to take your time and not feel pushed around in a crowd of people.

Another highlight was the Jardin des Tuileries. Ah, this park. Absolutely beautiful. I loved walking through the trees and feeling the perfect breeze during the hottest part of the day. People lounging around fountains, eating lunch, drinking coffee and reading- it was straight out of a movie.

How did life like this exist?

I remember one evening I walked along the Seine on the way home, watching the sunset, every few minutes coming across live music or some sort of gathering, people drinking their Spritz and laughing, couples dancing, people street performing and I was just taken by the magic of it all.

Where else can you find so much life just by walking a few minutes down the river?

The Parisians know how to walk fast and not be in a hurry- to live large and drink freely, to enjoy the outdoors and the company they keep, and they know how to eat, let me tell you, and eat well.

I had the BEST croissant from a boulangerie in the 11th.

One morning, my mission was to find a croissant- and not just any croissant, but the best croissant I’d ever had. I heard from a local about a small boulangerie called Terroirs d’Avenir that was unbeatable, so I set off, hoping my expectations would be met.

I knew I was getting close when I started to smell fresh bread and buttery goodness floating on the breeze before the little shop was even in sight. A little line of locals were streaming out of the small space, and I knew I was in luck. I stood in line and saw the pastries being placed in the window and oh my goodness were they fresh and buttery and everything you wanted to see in a bake case.

“Je voudrais un croissant s’vous plait.”

I walked a bit down the street and had my first bite… It was a weak in the knees experience.

UGH I love France.

I will admit I frequented this boulangerie multiple times in my stay, which was only right.

There are just no words to describe the buttery, flaky perfection that was that croissant and the ones that followed it.

Okay, enough about baked goods.

I’m sure you’re wondering, what about the Eiffle tower?

Our iron lady is MASSIVE. I kind of expected to be underwhelmed but I truly wasn’t. There was something about getting little peeks of it through buildings as you wandered in Paris that just brought a smile to my face every time. It is interesting, being in Paris alone. I feel that I gained a sense of independence when I was there and just a confidence in myself as a woman. I saw couples and people in love everywhere, and I just felt empowered being there by myself. Not to say I didn’t hope that one day I’d share this city with someone I loved, but I was so content to just fall in love with this time and season of my life. That being said I packed a picnic for myself one evening, fresh baguette, french cheese, grapes, prosciutto - the iconic French picnic, and headed to the Eiffel tower for sunset. I typically didn’t stay out past dark being alone, but I HAD to see this tower sparkle. I wouldn’t let myself leave without seeing it. I found a place on the green grass and set up my little spot for the evening. Watching people stroll in with their wine and champagne, pizza, picnics, and friends. The weather was perfect, the sky clear, the sunset brilliant. The park filled up as dusk set in- everyone watching in anticipation. As the day turned into night the tower slowly lit up, and then all at once, began its iconic sparkle. Everyone gasped and clapped- it was absolutely magical and one of my favorite memories of my time in Paris.

Now, while this evening was magical- I will say it was one of the evenings and areas I felt the most unsafe in alone. That evening I quickly walked to the metro to go home, and on the metro I watched someone get robbed right in front of me. It did kind of shock me a little, in a good way almost, to see just how quickly things like that can happen. That's the grit of a big city. I loved Paris, but I did feel like I had to be on guard quite a bit more than I did in other places, and there were a few things I wish I could’ve done but just knew it wasn’t smart doing alone.

I definitely felt the most unsafe when I was in more tourist-heavy areas, so I was glad I could retreat to my quiet little neighborhood at the end of the day.

Dining alone became second nature to me on this trip. The first couple times it does feel a bit awkward asking for a table for one, or booking a reservation for one, but I came to really enjoy the experience and one experience sticks out in my memory above the rest.

Once again I had a recommendation from a local to try a small restaurant near where I was staying called Mokonuts. It wasn’t typical French food, but actually a middle-eastern inspired cafe run by a Lebanese-Japanese couple. I had read reservations were next to impossible to get, and when I looked that was definitely the case. I was in luck, though, and randomly there was one table available one of the days I was in the city. After that day it was booked for weeks. So I snagged it and hoped it would be all the reviews said it would.

As I walked into the cozy restaurant I could immediately see why reservations were hard to come by- the space was tiny and you could see straight into the kitchen. It felt like a family experience. Everyone was so present, no one was on their phone, the kitchen staff was only 4 people including the owner, who was also cooking, plating, serving, and making sure everyone was taken care of.

Because it was such a small setting, every plate was so fresh. As you ate your starter you could see your entree being cooked and everything was timed so perfectly. The food was absolutely incredible- one of the best meals I’ve had. Flavors so bright and fresh. I didn’t want the experience to end.

Freshly made crostini, labneh, a beautiful salad and grilled sea bass- finishing with a seasonal fruit tart that was the perfect end to a perfect meal.

The last highlight of this post would have to be exploring Montmartre and seeing Sacre-Coeur. Absolutely stunning perched upon a hill- this beautiful cathedral just seems to tower over Paris and stand out from the tiny packed streets down below. After stepping above ground from the metro and making the climb up stair after stair- turning around and seeing the landscape of Paris was almost as breathtaking as the cathedral itself. I loved being there, and then after my time in the cathedral exploring Montmartre, home to many iconic artists. As someone who loves and appreciates art, walking the same streets as these artists and seeing the same vantage points that they would’ve seen was almost better than any museum. If only I could’ve experienced this in school- art history would’ve come alive for me.

After a week of walking along the Seine, exploring Montmatre and its many tiny streets, Saint-Germain with its iconic cafes and architecture, seeing the sunset over the city from the Arc de Triomphe, and seeing every inch of Paris I could manage- my time in Paris came to its close.

So how did this city measure up in the face of so many strong opinions surrounding it?

I loved it.

I loved it and every pastry, macaron, and baguette I consumed that week.

I’m not sure if it was a stroke of luck or what, but I experienced nor saw most of the stereotypical “issues” you hear people complain about when they visit Paris.

Did I feel a bit on guard and a little on edge at times? Yes, but all in all those moments were short lived and I definitely fell in love with Paris.

It just goes to show that sometimes you just have to take a leap of faith and experience things for yourself rather than letting the opinions and experiences of others dictate where you travel and what you like. As you’ll see later on in my journey, I have a few opinions of my own about places that may surprise you.

I was sad to say goodbye, but so excited to continue on my adventure.

Next stop- Strasbourg, France